Archive for April, 2010

Getting Softshells to the Table

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

Getting softshells from the Chesapeake Bay to your table is a little tricky. In order to make money at softshell crabbing, the crabber has to ‘fish-up’ every six hours or so. That is, he or she must ‘cull’ the floats to remove those crabs (‘shippers’) that have hardened enough to be packed into trays.

Fresh Soft Shell Crabs

Failure to pull the crabs out in time will result in ‘paper shells,’ which are too hard to have any market value. They are then graded by size, arranged in trays and covered with sea grass or wet newspaper for their journey to market. Recent innovation has allowed the building of self contained shedding systems that are far removed from the water source.

A note on paper shells: Rather than toss it back into the water, crabbers have discovered how to make it edible. Or rather, delicious. First you remove the top skin/shell. Then you clean out the “dead man’s fingers” and cut off the legs. What remains are the two body halves that contain all of the meat of the backfin. You dip these into batter and fry them until they are crispy. The result is a crunch that is all crab! Crabbers say these are even better than softshells.

So, once you learn to read the fin (very important) you are ready to build a trap and some pots, find a spot in a creek to stake a float and check it every six hours for soft crabs (don’t overlook any or they’ll harden and eat the others). Now pack them in trays, cover them with wet newspapers and refrigerate them, not too cold, until ready to ship or eat. That’s a lot of logistics.

Or, you can do something radical and bring the whole operation inside – with a climate-controlled tank full of peelers, ready to molt and eat immediately! By installing a special softshell tank in the dining room, The Boathouse has something unique in the restaurant world: Softshell crabs ready to cook the instant they shed!

Next….softshell recipes.

Catching Softshells

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

There are several methods used to catch peeler crabs. The very first peelers of the season are generally caught in ‘peeler pounds’ or ‘traps’.

Trap ready to be emptied

The trap is a large metal mesh box. The principle is simple: The peelers walk the shoreline looking for a safe place to hang out until they shed. They are extremely vulnerable from the time they leave their shell until they harden enough, some 24 hours later, to be able to defend themselves. Crabbers set rows of hedging to herd the wandering crabs into the traps, which are emptied at least daily.

When the big ‘run’ hits (the first full moon in May, so the legend goes), the principle method for capturing peelers is in a ‘peeler pot’. This is a wire mesh box with an area in the center in which a jimmy, or mature male, is placed to lure the females. Since female crabs mate only once in their life, after having shed for the last time, they literally storm the trap trying to get to the jimmy. In no time at all the pot is teeming with soon-to-shed females and one very frustrated male.

After the big run, which usually lasts about two sleepless weeks, the crabbers resort to other methods. One is to look for “doublers,” or two crabs together. The crab on top will be a mature male and the crab being cradled is a ripe female peeler. The male is carrying her in anticipation of her imminent shedding, at which time he mates with her for her one and only time. And then, get this, after the mating he cradles her for another day or two to ensure that no harm comes to her until she becomes a hardshell crab again. Is that sweet, or what? Still another method of capture, usually employed later in the summer, is to ‘scrape’ for crabs by dragging a wide net-like device through the grass just off shore in shallow water.

After catching peelers, crabbers pick up each crab and in one smooth motion verify its stage of molting, ‘nick’ its claws (break the tips so they can’t damage the other crabs, or the crabber) and toss it into the appropriate basket or float. The greens go in one float, the pinks into another, and the ripes into yet another. Some crabbers also separate them by sex (the female peelers are extremely docile) and by size. Unlike for hard crabs, there is no minimum size for peelers.

Next….Serving softshells.

All about the softshell

Wednesday, April 21st, 2010

Softshell crab season is here! At its best, is the sweet essence of crab. At its worst its a fry‑able, crunchy delight. There is hardly a creature that won’t stalk this culinary treat: Herons, seagulls, osprey, crows, raccoons, muskrats, snakes, fish and, of course, us. Even other crabs find softshells too good to resist.

Tasty softshells from the Chesapeake Bay

A softshell crab is no more than a local blue crab, callinectes sapidus, that has recently shed its shell, as all crustaceans must do in order to grow. The molting, or shedding, process begins with a ‘peeler’ which is getting ready to molt. In the days before the crab is ready to actually shed, it develops a ‘sign’ on a segment of its backfin that tells the crabbers just how close it is to shedding. The art of reading these signs was the key to making softshell consumption a viable industry.

A white line on the backfin means that the crab is a ‘green’, a pink makes it a ‘ripe’, and a dark red sign tells us that it is a ‘cherry ripe’ or ‘rank’ and shedding is imminent. Finally, there is the ‘buster’ that has actually started the process by separating its top shell from its bottom shell.  From the time the crab begins to ‘bust’ until it has left its old shell behind can take anywhere from 3-30 minutes.

As long as the newly molted crab remains in the water its new shell continues to harden. A fresh softshell crab is heavy for its size, and older ones are lighter. That’s because once it’s out of the sea, the crab evaporates the water from its body in an attempt to keep cool.

Leaving the crab in the water for 8‑12 hours after molting allows it to develop enough cartilage to survive being shipped to wholesalers and, eventually, restaurants. Removal from the water halts the hardening process. Therein lies the secret to ‘velvet’ softshell crabs. The sooner they are removed from the water after they shed, the softer they will be. The less time spent out of the water before being cleaned, the more salt water they contain, providing a moister, more flavorful crab.

Next…. Catching softshells.

Surprising Spring Wine Sampler

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010


Spring wines aren’t limited to crisp whites. Boathouse sommelier Mike Avery has put together a tasting sampler of whites and reds tailored to suit the wide-ranging menu of seafood, steak and pizza.

Spring Reds for Wine Wednesday

The whites include a Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. “Our signature item is our crab cakes,” Avery says. “And the Chardonnay is excellent with any of our crab dishes.”

Spring reds include a Cotes du Rhone and a Pinot Noir, both of which are versatile enough to pair well with tuna or salmon, and also a lean cut of meat like a filet. They are perfect for tomato-based dishes like pizza. The Cotes du Rhone in particular would match well with the rich scallops and earthy wild mushroom risotto, cherry glazed duck or Ahi tuna burger.

“Knowing my clientele, there’s always someone out there who wants something heavier,” Avery says. The Cabernet he chose is fruitier, with a smoother mouth feel than most Cabs, and would work well as a lighter spring match for meat pizza, strip steak, Kobe burger or Waygu beef.

The Boathouse offers wine sampling from 6:00-8:00 the first Wednesday of every month at Sunday Park, and the second Wednesday at Rockett’s. Tasting is free, a wine rep is on hand to answer questions, and the featured wines are available by the bottle half-price.

Meet the Staff: Alyssa Eidson

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

Event Coordinator for the Boathouse at Rocketts Landing

I am pleased to introduce Alyssa Eidson,  our new Event Coordinator for the Boathouse at Rocketts Landing. With several years experience in special events, including tent events, at another local wedding venue, Alyssa is a great addition to the Boathouse crew. Alyssa also has a wonderful reputation among Richmond wedding professionals, and was described by one as someone who “will get the job done.” Your event will be in good hands with Alyssa!

As Event Coordinator for the Boathouse at Rocketts Landing, Alyssa will meet with event hosts and brides & grooms to discuss the details of their event. She will then oversee the events to guarantee that everything goes smoothly.  Alyssa will also be introducing potential clients to our downtown location.

“Thank you” to everyone who has been so wonderfully supportive of the Boathouse that we needed to add a full-time Event Coordinator! We appreciate the support and loyalty of all of our customers – at both Boathouse locations. We are proud to be a part of the Richmond community.

If you are looking for a uniquely Richmond location for your special event – retirement, graduation, birthday, corporate, or wedding – contact Alyssa for a tour of our downtown waterfront restaurant. With its foundations on the banks of the James River and its incredible view of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse at Rocketts Landing truly embodies the spirit of Richmond: rooted in history and looking toward the future.

by Anne Roy, Sales Director for the Boathouse